Early Morning on the Elaphiti Islands
There’s a particular kind of stillness that belongs to islands, and Lopud, one of the larger Elaphiti islands has it in abundance. We stayed on the island, which meant we had the luxury of experiencing the island before the first ferry arrived and after the last one left. In those hours, Lopud feels like it belongs entirely to you, just the sound of waves, church bells in the distance, and the shuffle of cats moving through the narrow stone streets.
Most day-trippers don’t set foot here until around 11am, pouring off the boats from Dubrovnik or Cavtat, and by 6pm they’re gone again. In between, Lopud is lively with restaurants, sun-seekers, and people heading across the island to Šunj beach, a rare sandy stretch of the Adriatic. But in the morning, the promenade is empty, the shutters still closed, and the light slips gently over the terracotta rooftops. It’s a photographer’s gift: unhurried, balanced light, and the chance to frame the village without crowds.
Early morning fisherman trying his luck in the waters off Lopud
August 2025. Nikon Z7. 1/250 sec. f/9. ISO 320.
A Little History
Lopud has a surprisingly rich past for such a small place. In the Middle Ages it was part of the Republic of Ragusa (today’s Dubrovnik), and it prospered as a trading outpost. By the 15th and 16th centuries, the island boasted shipyards, noble summer houses, and over thirty churches and monasteries. The remains of that history are still scattered across the island – a ruined Franciscan monastery, weathered fortifications, and ornate stonework on what are now family homes.
Later centuries were quieter, with the island largely sustaining itself through farming and fishing. Today, Lopud has just a few hundred permanent residents, living at a much gentler pace than Dubrovnik across the water. The absence of cars adds to that sense of calm; the only transport you’ll find are golf carts ferrying supplies and people across the island.
Morning on the Promenade
First ferry to Dubrovnik arrives in Lopud.
August 2025. Nikon Z7. 1/250sec f/9 ISO 320
For me, the best part of Lopud is simply walking the seafront promenade before breakfast. Boats rock gently in the harbour, fishermen mend nets, and the cafés and restaurants are just starting to set out their chairs.
From a photographic perspective, mornings are ideal. The Adriatic is at its calmest, and the reflections of stone houses in the water create perfect symmetry. Narrow alleyways leading up the hillside catch pockets of soft light, offering opportunities for both wide shots and more intimate details. The ruins of the brutalist “Grand Hotel”, a one time jewel behind the iron curtain are an added bonus too!
Beyond the Harbour
While most visitors head straight for Šunj beach, the island is just as rewarding if you wander inland. Olive groves, citrus trees, and crumbling chapels are scattered along the paths. In the early hours, when it’s just you and the sound of cicadas, it feels like stepping into a quieter century.
Closing Thoughts
Lopud might only be an hour by ferry from Dubrovnik, but in spirit it feels much further away. Staying on the island transforms the experience, from a busy day trip into something slower, more intimate, and infinitely more photogenic. For photographers, early morning here is a reminder that sometimes the best images aren’t found in the obvious places, but in the spaces between: the empty streets, the first light, the quiet moments before the world wakes up.